LONDON — A stylish parade of fashion aficionados, clad in sleek leather and high heels, lined up outside The Londoner, a luxury hotel in Leicester Square, eagerly awaiting British designer Helen Anthony’s runway show. Amidst the chic crowd, B-list celebrities, including Love Island’s Curtis Pritchard and reality star Ekin-Su Cülcüloğlu, made a smooth entrance, bypassing the queue to take their front-row seats.
Inside, baristas rushed to serve pink tequila lemonades as guests were guided into a room bathed in pink hues, filled with rows of seats. Helen Anthony’s Autumn/Winter collection was described by her team as a tribute to the duality of Gemini, reflecting the tension between nature and human creativity. Models paraded down the catwalk adorned with striking wigs, tailored blazers with sharp shoulders, and short fur skirts, while latecomers strained to catch a glimpse of the new season’s offerings.
Critics question London’s fashion influence
However, amid the glamour, critics expressed concerns regarding London’s diminishing fashion influence and were already turning their eyes towards Paris Fashion Week, which commenced on Monday. This event marks the culmination of the ‘big four’ fashion capitals, concluding a month-long cycle that began in New York and traversed through London and Milan before arriving in Paris.
The preference for Paris was evident among attendees. A blogger, who identified only as Elizabeth, remarked, “London is more like personal and niche brands, and Paris is more international, bigger brands. Both have their benefits. But yeah, of course, I prefer Paris.” High jewelry specialist Emma Verdoian from Tiffany & Co. echoed this sentiment, noting how many London designers were opting for increased exposure in other cities.
Stylist Alissar Wynn, currently in New York and with experience from renowned brands such as Louis Vuitton, shared her perspective: “Post-Brexit, very few designers show there. If I wasn’t in the industry, I wouldn’t even be able to tell you when London Fashion Week was because I can’t say that it has a massive impact on the city or tourism.”
Brexit’s toll on the UK fashion landscape
The effects of Brexit have been particularly harsh on the UK fashion industry, with key figures like Victoria Beckham and Vivienne Westwood increasingly showcasing their collections in Paris. The loss of tax-free shopping for international customers has compounded the issue, leading to a significant decline in retail spending in London’s West End.
“For France, Brexit was a gift,” said Fashion Roundtable CEO Tamara Cincik. “We gifted our prominence in terms of talent and profile, while a business-savvy French government saw an opportunity … all while inducing customers to shop there for their high-end purchases.”
Less than a year following the Brexit referendum, French President Emmanuel Macron hosted a gala to assure fashion entrepreneurs that France was open for business, encouraging them to relocate. This stark contrast to the UK government’s approach, which has hindered international shopping through the elimination of VAT refunds, has contributed to a shift in the fashion industry’s dynamics.
Caroline Rush, the chief executive of the British Fashion Council (BFC), highlighted the consumer behavior shifts: “It goes New York, London, Milan, Paris. So actually, when all the buyers have been and seen the shows, they’re then buying the product in Paris.” This has resulted in a significant impact on luxury consumers who now prefer to shop in Paris, where they can obtain items at more favorable prices.
Brexit has not only affected retail but also funding opportunities for emerging designers. Charles Jeffrey, the creative director of Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, stated, “leaving the European Union changed the British fashion landscape drastically,” particularly concerning financial support from programs that previously aided young talent.
Emerging designers like Abigail Hodges, who launched her sustainable brand, FOTU, during the pandemic, have been hit hard by increased costs of materials and the complexities of cross-border operations. “Everything is more expensive. Everything is way harder,” she lamented, emphasizing how London Fashion Week has become financially unattainable for many.
As London Fashion Week concluded, the fashion elite were already preparing for their next adventure, heading to Paris with a sense that the spotlight has shifted, leaving London to reflect on an evolving landscape where it once thrived.